Monday, December 17, 2018

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur / 圣心大教堂

Website:  www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com
Address: Parvis du Sacré-Cœur
Ticket Pricebasilica free, dome adult/child €6/4, cash only
Operation Hours: basilica 6am-10.30pm, dome 8.30am-8pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Apr
Metro/RER: Anvers, Abbesse

More than just a basilica, Sacré-Cœur is a veritable experience, from the musicians performing on the steps to the groups of friends picnicking on the hillside park.

History
It may appear to be a place of peacefulness and worship today, but in truth Sacré-Cœur’s foundations were laid amid bloodshed and controversy. Its construction began in 1875, in the wake of France’s humiliating defeat by Prussia and the subsequent chaos of the Paris Commune. Following Napoléon III’s surrender to von Bismarck in September 1870, angry Parisians, with the help of the National Guard, continued to hold out against Prussian forces – a harrowing siege that lasted four long winter months. By the time a ceasefire was negotiated in early 1871, the split between the radical working-class Parisians (supported by the National Guard) and the conservative national government (supported by the French army) had become insurmountable.

Over the next several months, the rebels, known as Communards, managed to overthrow the reactionary government and take over the city. It was a particularly chaotic and bloody moment in Parisian history, with mass executions on both sides and a wave of rampant destruction that spread throughout Paris. Montmartre was a key Communard stronghold – it was on the future site of Sacré-Cœur that the rebels won their first victory – and it was consequently the first neighbourhood to be targeted when the French army returned in full force in May 1871. Ultimately, many Communards were buried alive in the gypsum mines beneath the Butte.

The Basilica
Within the historical context, the construction of an enormous basilica to expiate the city’s sins seemed like a gesture of peace and forgiveness – indeed, the seven million French francs needed to construct the church’s foundations came solely from the contributions of local Catholics. However, the Montmartre location was certainly no coincidence: the conservative old guard desperately wanted to assert its power in what was then a hotbed of revolution. The battle between the two camps – Catholic versus secular, royalist versus republican – raged on and in 1882 the construction of the basilica was even voted down by the city council on the grounds that it would continue to fan the flames of civil war. It was overturned in the end by a technicality.

The Romano-Byzantine–style basilica’s travertine stone exudes calcite, ensuring it remains white despite weathering and pollution. Six successive architects oversaw construction of the basilica, and it wasn’t until 1919 that Sacré-Cœur was finally consecrated, contrasting the surrounding area’s bohemian lifestyle.

While criticism of its design and white travertine stone has continued throughout the decades (one poet called it a giant baby’s bottle for angels), the interior is enlivened by the glittering apse mosaic Christ in Majesty, designed by Luc-Olivier Merson in 1922 and one of the largest in the world.

On Sundays, you can catch the organ being played during Mass and Vespers.

The Dome
Outside, to the west of the main entrance, 300 spiralling steps lead you to the basilica’s dome, which affords one of Paris’ most spectacular panoramas; it’s said you can see for 30km on a clear day. Weighing in at 19 tonnes, the bell called La Savoyarde in the tower above is the largest in France.

网站www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com
地址:ParvisduSacré-Cœur
门票价格:大教堂免费,圆顶成人/儿童€6/4,仅限现金
营业时间:大教堂上午六点至晚上十点三十分,圆顶上午八点三十分至晚上八点,五月至九月,上午九点至下午五点,十月至四月
地铁/ RER:Anvers,Abbesse

圣心大教堂不仅仅是一座大教堂,它还是一个真正的体验,从踏上表演的音乐家到在山坡公园野餐的朋友们。

历史
今天它似乎是一个和平与崇拜的地方,但事实上,圣心大教堂的基础是在流血和争议中奠定的。它的建造始于1875年,在法国普鲁士羞辱性地失败以及随后巴黎公社的混乱之后。在拿破仑三世于1870年九月向von Bismarck投降之后,愤怒的巴黎人在国民警卫队的帮助下继续对抗普鲁士军队 - 这是一场持续四个漫长冬季的悲惨围困。到1871年初谈判停火时,激进的工人阶级巴黎人(由国民警卫队支持)与保守的国家政府(由法国军队支持)之间的分裂已经变得无法克服。

在接下来的几个月里,被称为Communards的叛乱分子成功地推翻了反动政府并接管了这座城市。在巴黎历史上,这是一个特别混乱和血腥的时刻,双方都有大规模处决,并且在整个巴黎都发生了一波猖獗的破坏。蒙马特是Communard的一个重要据点 - 在圣心大教堂未来的地点,叛乱分子赢得了他们的第一次胜利 - 因此,当法国军队于1871年5月全面返回时,这是第一个成为目标的社区。最终,许多人公社被活埋在巴特下面的石膏矿中。

大教堂
在历史背景下,建造一座巨大的教堂以彰显城市的罪恶似乎是一种和平与宽恕的姿态 - 事实上,建造教堂基础所需的七百万法国法郎完全来自当地天主教徒的贡献。然而,蒙马特的位置当然不是巧合:保守的老卫兵拼命地想要在当时的革命温床中维护其权力。两个阵营之间的争斗 - 天主教与世俗,保皇派和共和党 - 肆虐,1882年,市议会甚至投票否决了大教堂的建设,理由是它将继续煽动内战的火焰。它最终被技术性推翻了。

罗马 - 拜占庭风格的大教堂的石灰华石散发着方解石,确保它尽管风化和污染仍然保持白色。六位历史悠久的建筑师负责监督大教堂的建设,直到1919年,圣心大教堂才最终被奉献,与周围地区的波希米亚生活方式形成鲜明对比。

虽然几十年来一直在批评它的设计和白色石灰华石(一位诗人称它为巨型婴儿的天使瓶),但内部却被陛下的闪闪发光的后殿马赛克所激活,由Luc-Olivier Merson于1922年设计,世界上最大的。

在星期天,您可以捕捉在Mass and Vespers期间播放的器官。

圆顶
在主入口的西边,三百个螺旋形的台阶将带您前往大教堂的圆顶,这是巴黎最壮观的全景之一;据说你可以在晴天看到三十公里。重达十九吨,上面塔中称为La Savoyarde的钟是法国最大的钟。

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